Shallow Water Wave Velocity Equation:
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The shallow water wave velocity equation calculates the speed of ocean waves in water where the depth is less than 1/20th of the wavelength. This is important for understanding coastal processes, tsunami propagation, and wave energy.
The calculator uses the shallow water wave velocity equation:
Where:
Explanation: In shallow water, wave speed depends primarily on water depth and gravity, not on wave period or wavelength as in deep water.
Details: Knowing wave velocity helps in coastal engineering, predicting tsunami arrival times, designing offshore structures, and understanding sediment transport.
Tips: Enter water depth in meters and gravity in m/s² (9.8 m/s² for Earth). All values must be positive numbers.
Q1: What defines "shallow" water for this equation?
A: Water is considered shallow when depth is less than 1/20th of the wavelength.
Q2: Does this apply to tsunamis?
A: Yes, tsunamis behave as shallow water waves even in deep ocean because their wavelengths are so long.
Q3: How does wave velocity change with depth?
A: Velocity increases with the square root of depth - doubling depth increases velocity by √2 (about 1.4 times).
Q4: What's the difference between shallow and deep water waves?
A: In deep water, wave speed depends on wavelength; in shallow water, it depends only on depth.
Q5: Can I use this for other planets?
A: Yes, just adjust the gravity value for the specific planet (e.g., 1.62 m/s² for the Moon).